Rare 'Dirty Dozen' and 'Fab Four' military watches up for auction
Three highly collectable Second World War ‘Dirty Dozen’ British military wristwatches in a collection amassed by a Northampton-based horological enthusiast will be auctioned on Wednesday, October 1st.
The sale also features a sought-after Hamilton ‘Fab Four’ chronograph wristwatch, along with several other British military watches. They are among the standout lots in the remarkable single-owner collection included in a two-day Jewellery, Watches and Accessories auction at Gildings Auctioneers in Market Harborough.
Inspired by the title of the 1967 World War Two film, watch collectors named the legendary group of military watches made in 1944 and 1945, the ‘Dirty Dozen.’
The watches were commissioned by the Ministry of Defence (MOD) from 12 watchmakers in Switzerland, which was able to continue its centuries-old industry of watch manufacturing throughout the war because of its neutral status. Featuring black dials and luminous hands and hour markers for nighttime vision, they were designed to equip soldiers with durable and accurate timepieces to withstand the rigours of battle.
‘Dirty Dozen’ wristwatches made by Timor and Cyma have guide prices of £400 - £600. A Buren Grand Prix ‘Dirty Dozen’ wristwatch is being offered with an estimate of £200 - £300. All the watches are stamped W.W.W. signifying the MOD specification ‘Watch, Wrist, Waterproof’.
“The ‘Dirty Dozen’ watches are among the most iconic timepieces in horological history,” comments Gildings director Will Gilding. “Owning a complete set is the holy grail for collectors, so we’re delighted to be offering this trio. Although these examples are not among the rarest of the 12 and are offered in battle scarred condition, they are still highly covetable. Inevitably, many of these watches didn’t survive the war, and their limited production runs also enhance their allure for enthusiasts.”
The ‘Fab Four’ chronograph wristwatch dates from circa 1970, when the heritage American watchmaker Hamilton was one of four manufacturers commissioned to produce watches for the British military. The stamp ‘0552’ on the back signifies its issuance to the Royal Navy. Only around 3,000 are believed to have been made, so due to its rarity, this watch has a guide price of £800 - £1,200.
The auction also features a range of other military timepieces, including a 1970s Hamilton W10 wristwatch estimated at £200 - £300 and a World War One cockpit watch with a guide price of £70 - £100. The World War Two precursor to the ‘Dirty Dozen’, the Army Trade Pattern (ATP) wristwatch is represented by a Buren estimated at £80 - £120 and a Moeris with a guide price of £50 - £100.
“As well as offering much to entice collectors of timepieces with a military provenance, this collection features many watches from famous names to tempt enthusiasts across a wide range of tastes, eras and budgets. In particular, an Enicar Sherpa Super Jet and two Breitling Top Time watches are already attracting great interest,” adds Will.
The two-day Jewellery & Watches auction begins at 10:30am on both days, featuring jewellery on Tuesday, 30th September, and watches and accessories on Wednesday, 1st October. The auction and in-person viewing times can be viewed here https://www.gildings.co.uk/auction/search/?au=351.