I discovered the ‘Caribbean of the UK’ cruising the English Channel

Rarely are any of us able to enjoy several bucket list experiences in one trip. But on a recent cruise, aptly titled Gems of the English Channel, I was able to tick a few off without the hassle of having to journey to them separately, writes Ruth Brindle.

On that list? The Lost Gardens of Heligan in Cornwall, the Isles of Scilly – Britain’s own Caribbean-like paradise – Guernsey in the Channel Islands plus a bonus that I was delighted to discover, Honfleur in northern France, a stunning medieval town.

Throw in the delight of seeing puffins and seals and some tax-free shopping into the mix and I was more than happy with my itinerary.

This was a cruise for the over 50s crowd and I soon discovered that you don’t have to be young to have fun. Many of my fellow Boomers told me they’d returned to Ambassador Cruise Line’s Ambience to take in “the warmest welcome at sea” again and again.

This cruise line, launched four years ago, specialises in no-fly sailings from home ports including Tilbury, Essex and Portsmouth, Hampshire as well as ports in the north east of England, northern Ireland and Scotland. Tilbury is just an hour’s drive from home for me. Perfect. No hassle. The ship has capacity for 1,400 passengers, so it’s smaller and less crowded than many of the mega ships of today.

My seven-day cruise around the English Channel got off to a sparkling start. At dinner the usual greeting from my lovely waiter Noor was: “Good evening Miss Ruth. House Bubbles?” Yes please! I felt pampered from day one.

The food on board was exceptional and on that first night I enjoyed a special of steak and lobster for a small extra cost, served by food waiter Adie. He and Noor felt like friends by the end of the trip.

After dinner, drinks in one of the many lounges or bars beckoned, or even a quiz, ending the evening with a professional theatre show. My Expedition Drinks Package took away any worries about a drinks bill at the end of the trip.

On the first day ‘at sea’ I swam in the seawater pool, nippy but refreshing. But there are lots of other ways to relax too, including spa treatments. I was treated to an excellent Indian head massage by Yuni, from Bali.

On the first of two formal ‘dress up’ nights I was lucky enough to dine with Captain Hugh Maynard, who was great company. And, yes Jane McDonald, I did ask and yes, he is married. Oh well.

For more laid-back, buffet-style meals I sometimes headed to Borough Market to choose from fish and chips, roast, curry, stir fry, salads, vegan and more. I also loved the luxury of dining in the upmarket Sea and Grass restaurant. The seven-course tasting menu was fabulous, but very filling. Saffron is another specialty restaurant for curry fans. Worth paying a little extra.

But as well as indulging in food and drink, I was excited about the ports of call.

Our first stop was Fowey in Cornwall and The Lost Gardens of Heligan. It was my first taste of using the ‘tender’ - one of the ship’s lifeboats - to get to shore. Squeals of laughter rang out as we boarded the bobbing boat for that short journey. We passed author Daphne du Maurier’s former home in this very pretty town with beautiful homes either side of the Fowey River’s estuary. No wonder Dawn French bought a house here too.

The world-famous, sub-tropical ‘Lost Gardens’ are about 40 minutes from the town. Giant ferns, palm trees and exotic plants dominate on the 200 acre site created in the 18th and 19th centuries. After the First World War it fell into disrepair but was rediscovered and restored from 1990. I found it a magical place.

Our next stop, and my favourite of the trip, was the Isles of Scilly. As the ship sailed slowly along beside the outer, uninhabited islands during our morning arrival they were swathed in mist. This only served to make them look more mysterious. We dropped anchor outside the harbour of the biggest island - St Mary’s. There are five inhabited islands and over 140 smaller uninhabited islands and rocks here.

On my chosen excursion I boarded an open-decked vessel of the St Mary’s Boatmen’s Association, which picked us up directly from the ship for a wildlife safari. Our eager crowd went on a 90-minute trip to see Atlantic Grey seals and an array of birds, including cute puffins that whirled above our heads before diving into the sea as we watched enchanted.

Other guests had chosen a boat trip to the island of Tresco to see the spectacular sub-tropical gardens there. This small taste of these stunning islands with their white, sandy beaches and clear, turquoise seas - more like the Caribbean than Cornwall - will definitely lure me back.

Next on the itinerary was the Channel Islands and St Peter Port, the capital of Guernsey. After a short transfer by tender, I decided just to explore the town’s pretty cobbled streets for a spot of VAT-free shopping and cafe culture. Other passengers chose to discover the island’s wartime history or its beautiful landscape by vintage bus. Fans of Victor Hugo, who penned Les Miserables among other novels, visited his stunning home, Hauteville House. He was exiled to Guernsey at one time. You can also take it all in during a 45-minute tour of ‘Town’ on the cute Le Petit Train, or a fun ride in a Tuk Tuk. Pick these up at the harbourside.

Our last stop was in Honfleur, Normandy. Here the popular all-day excursions were to Monet’s house and gardens, the D-Day beaches, or to see the Bayeux Tapestry, but, again, a stroll around this truly beautiful place was a relaxed delight. Founded in the 11th Century as a strategic port on the Seine estuary, the Old Harbouris at its stunning centre. It’s surrounded by the tall, thin, half-timbered buildings that make it one of the most stunning spots in France. An Instagrammable dream.

Busy cafés and restaurants line the quays, perfect for a lunch or just a beer. But I also made time for a short stroll along cobbled streets to the 15th century Saint Catherine’s Church – the largest wooden church in France.

Leaving France on the last night of my cruise I had plenty of special memories to reflect on and plans to make for my next sail away adventure.

Go: Gems of the English Channel

Low Saver Fares currently start from £1,149pp for Ambassador Cruise Line’s Summertime Gardens of the Channel Islands & Northern France, departing from London Cruise Terminal, Tilbury, on July 6, 2026 for 11 nights sailing on board Ambience (ambassadorcruiseline.com)

The sailing is on Ambience, visits Belle Ile en Mer off the coast of Brittany, La Pallice, and St Mary’s, Isles of Scilly, and the starting cost is based on two people sharing an inside cabin.

For more information on the cruise destinations, visit: visitislesofscilly.com www.visitguernsey.com

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