Stepping beyond the ancient stone wall and down the short path, we opened the front door and entered a world that could have fallen from the pages of those classical romantic poets, Wordsworth or Coleridge.
Immediately, amid the subdued lighting that caressed stripped and ancient beams, we smelled freshly baked bread and were surrounded by the gentle tones of calming music.
Nearby was a big and welcoming inglenook fireplace across from a dining table set for two, topped with a vase of flowers and a freshly-made lemon drizzle cake.
On an inviting leather settee, mother and baby teddy bears were cuddling as they appeared to be enjoying an old book of stories and pictures about High Bickington, the classically English ridgetop village, recorded in the Domesday Book, which would be our home for the next three days.
And for my partner and photographer Sue Mountjoy and myself, this was to become a voyage of discovery of the delights of the rolling local countryside, the welcoming village community and the virtually empty sandy beaches nearby.
But, most of all, this was a journey into the unfettered romanticism of Rose Cottage itself, a place engrained with many memories of its beginnings in the 1700s now coupled with 21st century comforts and technology.
Many historic British holiday homes have luxurious features that encourage tranquillity and relaxation. But this was different. Here the theme was romance – in an array of touches that would surely fire an amorous arrow into the coolest of hearts.
From the red rose petals scattered on the white cotton duvet alongside the Champagne in the ice bucket in the master bedroom to the freestanding copper bath-for-two in the next room (with a LOVE sign adorning the wall), it was difficult not to be intoxicated by the sensual atmosphere.
And outside, in the very private rear yard, was the hot tub, kept warm throughout our stay, which invited a double dip, clutching a bottle of cold white wine from the supply on the wall rack or a cocktail concocted from the honesty bar in the sitting room.
With just a short drive or a pleasant walk away, guests also have the opportunity to enjoy a private evening at the BBQ House on the Millbrook Estate of owners, Bob and Kate Boothby, or a similarly solo slot at the estate’s sauna – both set up in advance and ready to go. There is even a Rose Cottage app with lots of information about the property and the area.
For a bracing breath of Devon air, we were able to enjoy walks along the estate’s acres of woodland trails and also to the very heart of the village, the community shop set up a decade or so ago in the old chapel and run by a lively set of volunteers. They greeted us like old friends and served us hot Devon pasties and afternoon tea on Ming Rose Coalport China (which reminded Sue of the same set used by her maternal grandmother on Sunday afternoons!).
Even further, we ventured a few miles west to savour that beautifully golden-tinged North Devon coastline in autumn, with the summer crowds having long vanished and the huge and near-deserted beaches at Instow and Saunton Sands free to wander, arm in arm, among grounded yachts and dog-walking locals, enjoying some shoulder season sunshine.
We missed out on the outdoor beach vibe of the Glamorous Oyster seafood shack, which was on a closing day when we passed, but there were plenty of other quality Instow food options and the Boathouse’s crab and prawn linguine dishes complemented its superb balcony views.
A ramble with binoculars along a former railway cutting on the long-distance Tarka Trail at Fremington Quay revealed a pair of Common Buzzards soaring majestically in a cloudless blue sky as they lined up a snack among the unsuspecting rodents in a nearby meadow.
A pit stop at the popular café at the quay’s former railway station yielded us warming cauliflower cheese soup to wash down scrumptious grilled goat’s cheese, walnut and chilli baguettes on the balcony overlooking the once-busy coal and clay shipping port, which is now a delightful nature reserve.
We could have ventured to more distant parks and resorts or even one of the several well-reviewed local gastropubs for a meal, but romantic Rose Cottage called us back to evenings of secluded comfort, its firelight flickering, its Sonos system playing soft music and the two of us savouring the singular pleasure of producing our own home-made banquets in its well-equipped kitchen
After those Italian and Spanish suppers, we snuggled down (with the TV and our smartphones switched off) among the soft lights, the music and even the snuggled-up teddies and enjoyed reading, including my still-treasured gift from Sue, a well-thumbed 1993 copy of The Oxford Book of English Love Poems. Clearly, Cupid was at work. I was even inspired to scribble a verse in honour of our secluded sanctuary:
Beneath the thatch where wild roses lean,
A candle trembles soft and unseen,
Evening folds the lanes in gold,
And hearts grow young where love grows old.
On our final morning, we wandered through the village once more, stopping for chats with locals taking their excited young children to the thriving primary school and admiring the majestic Saxon St Mary’s Church with its list of rectors dating back to a certain Master Selo in 1202.
At the community shop, we bade farewell to the staff, after buying some crafts and a jumper for a grandchild knitted, lovingly, for charity by an elderly local woman. ‘We never know what colours they are going to be until they turn up,’ said one volunteer with a smile.
A few minutes later, as we looked back on Rose Cottage’s welcoming archway, cute windows and spotless white walls and recalled our time there, we both agreed that this could well be one of the most romantic cottages in the country!
FACTFILE: A week’s stay in Rose Cottage for up to four people starts from £1,274 and a three night stay is from £644. For more information, and to book, visit www.rosecottagedevon.co.uk or call 01769 629069.
