Restaurant review: Riverview in Cogenhoe

Riverview Restaurant, Cogenhoe.
Riverview Restaurant, Cogenhoe.
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I am often reminded, by my helpful colleagues, of the time I went on a camping holiday to Billing Aquadrome. They seemed somewhat amused by the fact that I could probably see it by standing on the roof of my house.

However, we came across a few decent nearby restaurants while there and made a note to come back to some of them again. One we spotted was the Riverview, in Station Road, Cogenhoe.

On a hot July Saturday someone who I took to be Ken Harris, one of the co-owners, in his Union Flag-decorated tie, gave us a warm welcome.

Spotting our bike helmets, he commented on what a lovely day it was for a ride, and made us feel like we were the most important people in the room.

Patio-style double doors opened onto a modest outdoor area, which had a nice view over a cornfield.

The menu has several sections catering for a range of occasions and appetites. Aside from the Lite Bites there is also separate steak Sunday Carvery and Sunday evening menus.

Although the latter two comprised standard fare, the starter and mains menu offered some nice variety.

We had the delicious seasonal spears of asparagus wrapped in bacon (£4.50) and duck breast (in plum sauce, I think) and clementine salad (£5). The mains menu posed some tough questions and we took a stupidly long time to discount the Chicken Cotswold (chicken breast, bacon and cream cheese wrapped in puff pastry, £12) and the mushroom and asparagus risotto (£10.50) in favour of the half shoulder of lamb (£16.95) and salmon and chive fishcake (£12).

The lamb peeled effortlessly off the bone, and was so tender it did not even need the red currant sauce.

Nicole’s fishcake and poached egg was a great combination, and also great value as it was an impressive three inches thick with Hollandaise sauce and more delicious buttered asparagus.

We passed on dessert, but we understand we may have missed out on Eton mess cheesecake, cherry samosa, Riverview sundae, and mixed ice creams.

Although Riverview wasn’t particularly busy, and parts of the décor unfortunately reminded me of a hotel conference room, the combination of the friendly Ken, who is determinedly unpretentious, and the high standard of food meant the whole meal experience was well worth a cycle ride...if not another ribbing about my holiday choices.

Nick’s Rating: 8

Value: Very affordable

Food: Good to superb

Service: Especially friendly

Parking: Ample

Disabled access: Yes

Final Total: We paid £43.50 for two courses plus three soft drinks.